If you’ve come into possession of some jewelry from a family member or stumbled upon a great find at a flea market or estate sale, you might be wondering about its authenticity. Is it costume jewelry, gold, or silver? While seeking the expertise of a jeweler or appraiser is one option, several at-home methods can help determine whether your treasures hold true value.

Insights gained from years of experience in the jewelry industry, alongside sage advice from seasoned gemologists, have illuminated various techniques for discerning genuine articles from their costume counterparts. Here’s a continuation of effective strategies to differentiate between gold, silver, and imitation jewelry.

Identifying Real Gold or Silver Jewelry

Several indicators can assist in identifying whether a piece is costume jewelry, gold- or silver-plated, or solid precious metal. Here’s how to start your investigation:

Inspect for Stamp Markings

In the U.S., the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) mandates jewelry to be stamped based on metal purity. This regulation, established in 1906 with the passage of the National Gold and Silver Marking Act, requires all U.S. jewelry to be marked since then. Pieces produced abroad or predating this law may lack such identifiers.

Look for concise numerical or alphabetical stamps in discreet locations on the jewelry, as pointed out by Jonathan Goldberg, CEO of Kimberfire. Possible marking spots include:

• Rings: Inside the band
• Necklaces and Bracelets: Clasp or connecting rings
• Earrings: Posts or backings

The stamps usually indicate either the karat or a number representing the purity of the alloy measured per thousand parts. For instance, a jewelry item containing 75% gold would carry a marking of 750. Common markings include:

• 10k: 10 karat yellow gold
• 14k, 583, or 585: 14 karat yellow or white gold
• 18k or 750: 18 karat yellow or white gold
• 24k or 999: Pure 24 karat gold
• GF: Gold-filled (not solid gold)
• 925: Sterling silver
• PT or 950: Platinum
• Ti: Titanium

As Meserlian suggests, these identifiers may require magnification to be viewed clearly. However, as cautioned by Matt Harris, a trained gemologist, counterfeit jewelry can often bear false stamps, making additional testing essential.

Magnet Test

Conduct a simple magnet test by bringing a magnet near your jewelry. According to Meserlian, authentic gold and silver aren’t magnetic. If it clings to the magnet, it is likely gold- or silver-plated with a metallic base underneath.

Platinum presents a unique challenge since it typically contains a mixture of other metals, which may create magnetic properties as well. Thus, even a magnetic platinum piece doesn’t rule out its authenticity.

Color Evaluation

For items that appear silverish, examine the color closely to distinguish between actual silver, white gold, platinum, or titanium. Consider these shades:

• Silver: Typically warmer in hue
• White Gold: Has a slight yellow tint
• Platinum: The brightest, whitest option
• Titanium: More muted and darker in tone

Tarnishing Indicators

Tarnish can also be a significant clue in identifying metals. Here are a few insights from industry experts:

• Solid Silver: Gradually oxidizes, forming a removable layer of black tarnish
• Silver-Plated: May show exposure of base metal through worn areas
• Solid Gold: Remains untarnished
• Gold-Plated: Discolors in spots, especially against skin contact
• Platinum: Virtually tarnish-resistant
• Titanium: Also resistant to tarnishing

Assessing Wear and Tear

Examine the jewelry for signs of misuse. Costumes jewelry tends to show wear faster, while genuine gold and platinum typically resist scratches due to their durable nature.

Weight Check

Genuine gold or silver items typically weigh more than hollow or plated versions due to their solid structure. Among the precious metals, platinum is the heaviest, while aluminum is comparatively light. White gold usually ranks a bit heavier than silver.

Ceramic Scratch Test

A practical method for testing gold is to scratch it lightly against unglazed ceramic. Real gold will leave a golden streak, whereas gold-plated items will show a dark line.

Verifying Pearls, Diamonds, and Gemstones

Once the metal’s authenticity is established, focus your attention on the jewelry’s pearls, diamonds, or other gemstones.

Pearl Testing Method

To quickly assess if a pearl is genuine, gently rub it against your tooth. If the texture feels like sandpaper, it is likely real. Alternatively, two pearls can be rubbed together to achieve a similar sensation.

Pearl Size and Weight

Be cautious of pearls that are overly lightweight or excessively large – these characteristics usually indicate that they are not authentic.

Brand Identification

Look for any brand names on the pearls. Many well-known costume jewelry brands skimped on using genuine materials, making the brand stamp a tell-tale sign of authenticity.

Diamond Fog Test

The fog test for diamonds is simple: breath on the stone. Genuine diamonds dissipate heat rapidly and won’t stay fogged for long, unlike cubic zirconia, which fogs up and takes longer to clear.

Analyzing Sparkle

To differentiate between diamond, moissanite, and cubic zirconia, inspect the stone under bright light. Moissanite reflects colorful sparkles, while cubic zirconia looks comparatively dull. Notably, cubic zirconia wears down faster due to its lower scratch resistance.

Natural vs. Lab-grown Diamonds

Although lab-grown and natural diamonds share identical chemical properties, they may be differentiated through an inspection for laser inscriptions on the diamond girdle. Lab diamonds typically carry inscriptions beginning with “LG,” while natural diamonds possess numerical engravings.

Air Bubble Examination in Gemstones

Identifying genuine rubies, emeralds, or sapphires can be challenging without professional tools. However, checking for visible air bubbles inside the stones can indicate synthetic materials.

Recognizing the Beauty and Value of Costume Jewelry

Even though costume jewelry might lack authenticity in precious metals or gemstones, it still holds aesthetic and monetary value. Inheriting such pieces often includes finding delightful costume jewelry, a significant trend during the mid-20th century, as noted by Harris.

Wearing non-genuine designs isn’t objectionable; in fact, the late fashion icon Chanel was celebrated for her exquisite faux pearl creations. The primary concern lies in ensuring that faux pieces aren’t misrepresented as authentic, making it beneficial to recognize the differences.